Paul Theroux is a travel writer I like. Good travellers who are good writers are a rare breed. I only know of one other instance (a childhood infatuation with Gerald Durrell aside): Eric Newby, author of A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush, and that precursor to so many lesser books, A Small Place in Italy. Theroux’s Happy Isles of Oceania is a good book. Largely unimpressed by the South Pacific islanders’ ultimate acquiescence to missionaries and, worse, Mormonism, by their nowadays inability to navigate beyond the inner reef, by their infatuation with enormous tins of fatty low-grade corned beef, and pissed off after the breakup of his first marriage, he told it like he saw it. Many South Pacific nations are still muttering loudly. But he was charmed by the ni-Vanuatu. And so will you be if you grab a cheap flight to Port Vila, hop on a freighter for Tanna just for the adventure (most people fly to Tanna in one of Air Vanuatu’s gleaming new jets), and stay at the Rocky Ridge Bungalows of my new friends, Tom and Margaret Naieu.
So impressed was I by Tom and Margaret and this new accommodation whose gardens are pictured that I made them a website. Their bungalows are basic but charming, within and yet separate from the picturesque village of Iwiak. At well under $100 a night, they come with the enormous advantage that you do not feel like you are paying through the nose, a problem at Tom’s tenants’ place, the adjacent award winning White Grass Resort, where I stayed. You can sit gazing over the same views White Grass boasts about from Tom’s simple but good dining room as the sun goes down over the darkening ocean, and eat a lobster one of his boys has just scooped off the bottom of the sea floor. Or you can walk along a sun-dappled path through the littoral forest and eat with Japanese opera singers and successful salesmen from Frankston at White Grass’s dining room — it’s one of the most beautiful and most beautifully situated dining rooms I have ever seen. The ‘Blue Hole 2’ snorkelling heaven White Grass Resort advertises is in fact accessed from Rocky Ridge Bungalows, and it craps on the snorkelling at the other places I stayed. Continue reading “On Vanuatu”